There is a roundabout just outside our hotel with a statue of a seahorse. There is the largest population of seahorses in the world in the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
The seahorse roundabout
On our last full day here in Portugal we decided to revisit the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve at Quinto de Marim. At the entrance to the park there is a poster reminding us of the fragility of the seahorses in nature with the population diminished by 90% in the last 15 years.
On our boat trip earlier in the week we had seen buoys protecting the area where the seahorses exist.
We had much better light on our visit today but the tide was very low and the mudflats were almost empty of waders. However, we did have a very good view of this plover below which, according to one ID app, is a semi-palmated plover. However, it is more likely a non-breeding adult common ringed plover. In fact, having studied several sources, the slight webbing between only one of the toes convinces me that this is definitely a common ringed plover
Semi-palmated plover or more likely a non-breeding adult common ringed ploverStonechatThe flora was even more beautiful after the rain and with quite warm sunshineOxalis pes-caprae has all sorts of common names, including slender yellow wood sorrelThe mudflats were empty of birdlife but it was great walkThe tidal mill with very little bird life todayMainly cattle egret with a few little egrets at the freshwater pondChiffchaffs and/or willow warblers were putting on quite a display at the freshwater pond – difficult to say which when they weren’t singingLittle grebeTealTeal and shovelerTerrapinsLupins have appeared in flower after the rain… and these beautiful crocus-leaved romuleaIberian magpieIberian magpieAnd saving the best to last, just as we were leaving the park a Eurasian hoopoeEurasian hoopoe
And then back to Olhão for a celebratory last lunch – although, we didn’t really need an excuse.
This morning we had a non-birding trip to the pretty little town of Estoi, about 10 kilometres north of Olhão. There were three interesting tourist attractions: the Matriz de Estoi Church (which we only visited briefly as there was a service on); the Palácio de Estoi (a 19th Century Neo-Rococo styled palace, now converted into a luxury posada hotel, whose beautiful ornamental gardens are open to the public; and the nearby Ruínas Romanas de Milreu, the best preserved Roman ruins in southern Portugal.
The Matriz de Estoi ChurchEl Palacio de EstoiThe orange and lemon groves
Although it was a non-birding day we did have a very good view of a European hoopoe in the gardens and white storks flying high overhead.
A traditional Portuguese farmhouse (Casa Rural) was built on top of the Roman Villa Inside the Roman villaThe temple was one of the earliest churches in Portugal , and has been used as a Roman temple, a church and a mosque, but is now a ruinThere were many fine mosaicsOf course there had to be a bath houseThe beautiful spring flowers are just everywhere in the countryside at presentAnd they are a feature of town gardens too
We took an Uber to Quinta de Marim, a few kilometres to the east of Olhão.
Quinta de Marim (or Centro Educação Ambiental de Marim) is a beautiful estate with many different habitats that attract birds. A 3 km trail takes you through various ecosystems – dunes, salt marshes, pine woodlands. There is a visitors’ centre and a couple of hides at the edge of the marsh, one looking across the mudflats and another looking over a fresh water pond.
The dull weather was rather disappointing for photographs but it was still quite warm (17C) and we didn’t need coats. The visit was not at all disappointing.
LavenderIberian magpies in the pine treesRosemary in flowerIberian magpie
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StonechatSwallowFrom the roof of the mill there were spectacular views along the coastThere were waders everywhere along this stretch of the coastGrey ploverBar-tailed godwits and a whimbrelGreenshankIberian magpiePurple viper’s buglossA flyover Eurasian spoonbillTidal mill at Quinta de Marim – In other times, when energy sources were scarce and limited only to muscle power, wind and current, tidalmillshad a major advantage over other forms of energy: their constancyand predictability. There are two daily tides that guarantee approximately4 hours of grinding. They were built in estuaries on low land and in sheltered areas where the water could be dammedKestrelWhite stork, not looking so white in this lightDunlinLittle grebes on the freshwater pondCattle egretWigeon with barn swallow flying pastRoman salting tanksCowpeaBarn swallow on a wireBlackbird on a log
In the late afternoon on our return to Olhão we had another walk around the Salinas de Olhão.
WhimbrelA different swallow ?Pied avocetRedshankPied avocet
We made the most of the sunny and calm conditions to take a three hour trip around the Ria Formosa lagoon, located in the Algarve, in southern Portugal.
In 2010, the lagoon was recognised as one of the country’s seven natural wonders and the series of barrier islands connects to the sea through six inlets, one of which is artificial to allow easier access to the port of Faro.
We spent half an hour on the tiny island of Armona, just enough time to visit the village with its charming minute houses which are mainly used as holiday homes and to savour the tropical feel of the island.
The approach to the public toiletsLarge white butterflyA typical holiday homeClear water and sandy beaches of ArmonaRuddy turnstone
We then moved on to the larger island of Culatra which has a permanent population of about 1,000 people who are mainly involved in the fishing trade.
The island has an extensive sandy beach on its ocean side to which we made our way across the protected sand dunes on a raised wooden walkway. It was warm enough to sit on the beach next to a bar and enjoy a beer.
The walkway to Praia da CulatraThe best of the bird life on the island – a crested larkYellow-legged gull
As the tide was high most of the sandbanks were submerged and so, apart from gulls and cormorants, we saw very little bird life, except on the return journey we saw a small colony of spoonbills.
Eurasian spoonbillsThe covered markets of Olhão seen from the lagoon.
In the evening we had another walk around the Salinas de Olhão, next to our hotel.
Black-winged stilt in the evening sunshineLittle egretChiffchaffChiffcaffChiffchaff catching its last meal of the day
A two hour flight from Bristol, a 15 minute transfer from Faro and we are transported into what seems like another world and, in particular, a different climate.
On the first morning of our stay, within a 2 minute walk from our hotel, we are strolling amongst nature in the Salinas de Olhão with colourful wild flowers, huge numbers of waders, lots of small passerines flitting around almost at our feet and with the sun on our backs.
Salinas de OlhãoBlack-winged stiltRedshankRedshank photo bombing a group of dunlinWalks through the former salt pansBlack-tailed godwit centre stageLittle egretChiffchaffSardinian warblerZitting cisticola ChiffchaffBlack-winged stiltSlender-billed gullBlack-headed gullSlender-billed gullKentish ploverSanderlingGreenshank, common ringed plover, sanderling and redshank (back to front)Common ringed plover centre stageCommon sandpiper
The last two days of our trip to Cyprus we have spent a good amount of our time studying the flora of the Akamas Peninsula in the presence of very knowledgeable guides and their enthusiasm has rubbed off a little on us. There has been a lot of rain around but, thankfully, we have stayed dry and enjoyed the great scenery of Cyprus in moderately warm sunshine.
Yiannis Christophides leading us through the Botanical Gardens at the Baths of AphroditeFriar’s cowl againThe stars of the visit – the local cyclamenThe Baths of Aphrodite were a real disappointmentAcross the bay to the Troodos Mountains… and the azure waters below.Serpentine with lava above…and limestone only metres higher up.For lack of birds we study the fauna – a millipede
On the way back to the airport we stopped again in search of flora but managed a sighting of a long-legged buzzard.
Long-legged buzzard
Down in the plain, and tucked behind the airport, we visited a water treatment works (not quite the lasting memory of Cyprus that the Tourist Board would wish for) and had the opportunity of a few more birds.
Green sandpiperA common sandpiper – not my best ever photo but quite an achievement at that distanceSpur-winged ploversA tawny pipit (a first for me) at some distanceA cattle egret was much more obligingA firebug at even closer quartersSouthern green shield bugErodium malacoides – European stork’s bill.
I must admit I would rather have seen a stork to end our trip
This morning we had a walk up in the hills close to our hotel in the company of the leading local botanist Yiannis Christophides. He is the author of the book which our botanist guide, Jessica, has been referring to all week.
As well as the wonderful plants we saw, we had the benefit of great views of the coast; that is until the heavens opened and we had to scurry back to our hotel with hail followed by a torrential downpour with thunder and lightening.
Enthusiastic amateur botanists in the fieldMy first orchid of the trip – Fan-lipped orchid
Gallery of some of the botanical delights of our morning walk
Only one bird species of note to report this morning – crag martin.
Yesterday we moved on from our base in Paphos to the Akromas Peninsula. We had a brief stop at Agios Georgious. Heavy rain was forecast and so we made the most of our time to stroll along the beach and study the local fauna and flora.
The highlight was a blue rock thrush up on the cliffs. Out to sea we could just make out a shag on a nearby island.
Shag Blue rock thrush
On the beach, surprisingly, we saw a hare. The other highlight was a tiny Kotschy’s gecko under the rocks.
Kotschy’s geckoInteresting geology on the beachPhoenician Juniper berriesCrested lark on a stone
The rain set in but it wasn’t particularly a problem as we stopped for a leisurely lunch in a wonderful mountain taverna.
Today we headed up into the foothills of the Troodos mountains to Peristerona Gorge. Luckily there the weather held and we had gorgeous views of the valley and back down to the coast. Over the gorge we saw a long-legged buzzard and crag martins. With careful inspection with telescopes we also made out a small group of Chukar Partridge.
Views from the Peristerona GorgeDaisy on steroids – Southern daisyLong-legged buzzardLong-legged buzzardLong-legged buzzardGoats in the gorgeChukar partridgeChukar partridge left and rightThere must be a crag Martin in there somewhere!
We then had a short stop on a ridge to study some of the local flora. The standout for me was an Eastern Strawberry tree.
Eastern strawberry tree – our guide Jessica verified it didn’t have much taste and was ok to eat once!
The rain then set in and we took shelter in a small mountain café where I tasted the local Cyprus coffee (a bit like Turkish coffee) and a welcome glass of water.
The group then headed up the mountain in the rain to see some mouflon which were being reared before release into the wild. I took time to publish my previous day’s blog on my phone – quite amazing as we were in the middle of nowhere and I seemed to have better connection up there than in the middle of Bristol.
Before heading home we stopped at the Ebretou Dam where all we saw of note was a common sandpiper, a white wagtail, jackdaws, goldfinch and some feral pigeons. It was getting cold by then and we were happy to be heading back to the comforts of our hotel.
Ebretou DamCommon sandpiper on rockWhite wagtail on the beachCombining birding and botany – a bird of paradise plant in the hotel grounds
We joined the main group of our natural history tour to Cyprus today but, as they were visiting the Archeological Park in Cyprus (which we did yesterday), we were kind to ourselves and had a gentle stroll around the park focussing on the birds.
Yesterday we started with a Sardinian warbler and today it was in the same spot to greet us; yet I failed again to get a decent shot. Stonechats were two-a-penny again but we were not complaining as they are lovely little birds and much more accommodating than warblers. We did manage to see a Cetti’s warbler but it soon disappeared into the depths of a bush before I could operate my camera.
Photography with a bridge camera was not easy as the light wasn’t great today. At my time of life compromise is a constant!
StonechatAt first I thought it must be a stonechat from its position but then realised it was a meadow pipit.This kestrel was clearly not a stonechatKestrel obligingly flying pastSome new plants to us in the park – FagoniaocreticaI think these hooded crows are more handsome than our carrion crows… and quite attractive in flightCoffee on the quay and a chance to add to our list with these great cormorants in the harbour
In the afternoon we travelled inland and in the Anarita Park our guide Andy had a great spot with a Finsch’s wheatear.
If you look closely you can see the Finsch’s wheatear on the top of the post. You might realise what a good spot this was as this is a highly cropped photo of a shot with my bridge camera with 600 mm lens.The Finsch’s wheatear a little closerAnother good spot – this time by our botanist guide Jessica – Hyacinthella millingenii
We ended our day at the Agia Vagara settling pools which was a little disappointing as the light had more or less failed by then: we saw a few common snipe and a jack snipe, a teal and a pair of coots before we got caught in a heavy shower which had been threatening for most of the day.
Although the forecast for the week had looked very good before our arrival I think it must have been written by the Cyprus Tourist Board because the reality is now somewhat disappointing. It’s definitely better than the UK though.
Yesterday we explored the headland near to the Archeological site at Paphos and today we more or less covered the same region; but this time inside the confines of the site. It was a wonderful visit and I shall include a few photos of the site and, in particular, the mosaics but there were lots of opportunities to see birds and some interesting plants.
The first sighting was of a laughing dove (another first for me, except I now realise that I saw one yesterday) and then a Sardinian warbler.
Laughing doveNormally I wouldn’t publish such a poor photo but I was very pleased to see this bird- a male Sardinian warbler
There were lots of of these Anemone coronarias – some were a much darker purple
Anemone coronaria
The other interesting plant which was prevalent was a Leontodon tuberosus.
Leontodon tuberosusThe only butterfly photo of the day – a large whiteRed-throated pipit close upNot so close up – a common chiffchaffStonechats everywhereCrested lark on the ruins
Just a few of the ruins and mosaics for a flavour of what we saw (I will come back to this when I have more time and band width).
And a few more birds to conclude:
Laughing doveLinnet
The locals certainly have stamina here (or perhaps it was a Russian gymnast).
Whilst I was admiring his skills I missed a flock of golden plovers nearby.
Bliss. The schoolchildren are finally back to school and we now have all these wonderful outdoors spaces to ourselves. When we started our visit in the morning sunshine it was even too early for pre-school age children. Perhaps their parents/grandparents/childminders were too exhausted after looking after their older siblings for a few weeks? Spare a thought for teachers who have them in their care for much longer periods.
And how we enjoyed Tyntesfield, an ornate Victorian Gothic Revival house with extensive garden and parkland, just a stone’s throw from Bristol.
We didn’t actually see many birds, and I certainly didn’t photograph any, but there were a few butterflies and the flowers in the walled garden and around the orangerie were well worth photographing and recording in a blog.
A small copper butterfly which has been very rare in these parts this summer
The only downside seemed to be a strange smell in the air which, we presumed, must have been some sort of spreading of fertiliser. How appropriate was that as the house was paid for by the vast fortune made by William Gibbs, the owner of the monopoly on exporting valuable bird droppings from Peru.
Almost a non-birding day; except that on our walk this morning to Wiveton Hall we did see our first marsh harrier of the week across the marshes.
A few years ago, on our first visit to Wiveton Hall, we had met the eccentric owner, Desmond, whose popular BBC programme “Normal for Norfolk” documented his adventures and the daily delights of life around the Hall, on the farm and in the café. No such luck today. However, the coffee was very good and was worth the walk.
From here we carried on to visit St Nicholas Church, Blakeney. I hope you agree that the inclusion of the visit is warranted here in that there was a wildlife aspect to our visit.
St Nicholas , Blakeney famous for its two towers: one at the west and a curious, spindly beacon rising to the south-east of the chancel whose purpose is not really known. It seems that the church’s policy is having a good effect.Simon Jenkins in his book of England’s 1000 Best Churches says “the earliest and most interesting part of the interior is the chancel , dating from a Carmelite friary founded here in 1296”.“The rare stepped seven-lancet east window is unusual for this late date. The only other medieval seven-lighter extant is at Ockham in Surrey”The nave is PerpendicularThe significance of Blakeney’s coastal position is well recorded hereMost of the church is flint coated …… except the chancel is mainly covered in concrete.
In the afternoon we visited NATURAL SURROUNDINGS, Norfolk’s Wildlife-Gardening & Wildflower Centre next to Bayfield Hall, just a stone’s throw from Blakeney.
Small red-eyed damselflyHouse flyDefinitely the stars of the showRed Admiral
A very informative and enjoyable visit. Did I forget to mention that there’s a very good café with much too generous portions of cakes?
Martin's Bird Blog & Nature Photos 